William Finnegan: Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
Description
Reading this guy on the subject of waves and water is like reading Hemingway on bullfighting; William Burroughs on controlled substances; Updike on adultery. . . . a coming-of-age story, seen through the gloss resin coat of a surfboard. "Sports Illustrated"
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"Barbarian Days" is William Finnegan s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life.
Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. "Barbarian Days" takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves.
Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity.
"Barbarian Days "is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.
Praise for "Barbarian Days"
Without a doubt, the finest surf book I ve ever read . . . But on a more fundamental level, "Barbarian Days" offers a clear-eyed vision of American boyhood. Like Jon Krakauer s "Into the Wild," it is a sympathetic examination of what happens when literary ideas of freedom and purity take hold of a young mind and fling his body out into the far reaches of the world. " The New York Times Magazine"
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Incandescent . . . I d sooner press this book upon on a nonsurfer, in part because nothing I ve read so accurately describes the feeling of being stoked or the despair of being held under. . . . [But] it s also about a writer s life and, even more generally, a quester s life, more carefully observed and precisely rendered than any I ve read in a long time. " Los Angeles Times""
"Budding paleontologists will be inspired." BOOKLIST"
A Return to Love, Marianne Williamson's mega-bestselling spiritual guide, is available for the first time on compact disc. In it, she shares her reflections on A Course in Miracles and her insights on the application of love in the search for inner peace.Williamson reveals how we each can become a miracle worker by accepting God and by the expression of love in our daily lives. Whether our psychic pain is in the area of relationships, career, or health, she shows us how love is a Creative Arts and Play Therapy for Attachment Problems free epub potent force, the key to inner peace, and how by practicing love we can make our own lives more fulfilling while creating a more peaceful and loving world for our children.Written and read by Marianne Williamson
Led into Mystery is an unanticipated sequel to John de Gruchy's book Being Human: Confessions of a Christian Humanist. It was prompted by the untimely and tragic death of his eldest son, Steve, in February 2010, and the questions this posed about the meaning of life and death from the perspective of Christian faith. A further prompt came as a result of a multi-disciplinary research project on "the humanist imperative in South Africa" (2009-2010). This raised critical questions about being human from the perspective of science, especially neuroscience, as well as other faith and secular perspectives. All these inform the discussion which is an exploration of mystery on the boundaries of human knowledge and experience, engagement with the world and the evolution of consciousness from a specifically Christian theological perspective. The title derives from Karl Rahner's comment that theology is about being led back into mystery -- the ultimate mystery of God disclosed in the life, death and resurrection of Jesus and the creative presence of the Spirit in the life of the world. This mystery is an open secret waiting to be explored, expressed and entered into by faith.
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Author: William Finnegan
Number of Pages: 464 pages
Published Date: 17 May 2016
Publisher: Penguin Books
Publication Country: United States
Language: English
ISBN: 9780143109396
Download Link: Click Here
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